Initially Sri Lanka wasn’t on the top of my travel list…however, it was booked and I was going. Flying via Abu Dhabi was worth it as a Velocity Platinum member as the service in Etihad’s Business Studio was exceptional with the crew on board and spending a few days lazing my the pool in the Ritz Carlton post-Christmas was simply heaven.
Flying to Colombo overnight on Sri Lankan airlines is less to be desired. We flew on one of their 321 Neo jets however the business cabin is quite uncomfortable and for an overnight flight the seat doesn’t go lie flat therefore it makes it near impossible to sleep. However, I cannot fault the crew, they were attentive and the service was surprisingly excellent! Arriving into Colombo is interesting – it is like flying into the US in the late 80s, Bandaranaike International Airport does need an overhaul! We were greeted by our driver for the next two weeks Geeth once we got through immigration – nothing happens with pace in Sri Lanka and after an overnight flight this certainly didn’t help with my first impression of this country!
Our first stop was Nuwara Eliya in the central part of the country – it was a long drive to the tea country that is often referred to as Little England! We finally reached our hotel Ferncliff at dusk for a gin and tonic in the grounds of the laid-back, family-run B&B that is housed in a mid-1800s building. A lovely welcome and our stay was comfortable with a lovely dinner and breakfast before going to explore the township before heading off to Ella. As it was New Year’s Eve the trains were full. Tickets prices are very cheap even for first class tickets but these cannot be bought too far in advance and had sold out. So we tried our luck and went to the station to see if we could purchase second class tickets to experience part of what is known as one of the most beautiful railways journeys in the world. Like the airport the railways station was chaos and when the train came in it was a sight to behold. First Class appeared empty. Second Class was completely full with people pushing/squeezing into the carriages. We had given up but then somehow managed to get into one of the third class carriages. We then spent the next 2 hours standing up like sardines with other travellers seeing very little. About 45 minutes before arriving, I managed to sit on the step of the door and got to witness the beautiful landscape. My advice is to certainly travel my train if you can, but try to get First Class, you need a seat to experience the breathtaking views as the train travels through mountain ranges and tea plantations. We arrived into Ella and our driver picked us up and whisked us to our accommodation at 98 Acres for New Year’s Eve. 98 Acres Resort and Spa is an elegant, chic hotel that stands on a scenic 98 acre tea estate, surrounded by a stunning landscape. The uniquely designed resort blends well with nature, and consists of charming chalets mostly made of recyclable substance. Discarded railway sleepers are put to good use in the making of decks and walls at the resort. Rough, hewn granite lend simple elegance to the floors of chalets adorned with thatched roofs of ‘Illuk’ straw that adds to their rustic beauty. The private pool, the room was everything and more. The food was delicious and service impeccable. I would highly recommend staying here longer than a night and exploring the surrounds. We didn’t want to leave…but before we did we made the climb up Little Adam’s peak which showcased that landscape even more! On leaving our driver took us via The Nine Arch Bridge which would be a highlight for me! It spans 91 meters at a height of 24m. The beautiful nine arches make it a very picturesque spot especially as it is located in a dense jungle and agricultural setting. Behind the railway, a forest is booming and below, tea leaves are being cultivated – it was magical! We then made another stop at Ravana Falls which was lovely however, if you have seen one waterfall you have seen most! A welcome stop to break the journey though! We then arrived in Yala staying at the Jetwing property. The pool was magic and an afternoon of sun lying by it was just what was needed! The next afternoon we went on our first safari into the Yala National Park. It was fun, and we saw several elephants very close by and water buffalos and amazing bird life, but having so many tourists in jeeps at the one time makes me wonder is this even ethical as it is certainly not fare on the animals that have made this their home. Unfortunately, we didn’t see a leopard but I am sure this is because of the noise of the jeeps hurtling past one another. If you want to see wildlife, I would suggest going to South Africa and going to a private game park.
Driving to Galle we stopped at two properties to see the facilities – the beautiful Shangri-La’s Hambantota Golf Resort & Spa overlooking the pristine southern coast of beautiful Sri Lanka, Shangri-La's Hambantota Golf Resort & Spa is located along the ancient Spice Route in a city steeped in rich history – this property is certainly on my list when we next visit this part of Sri Lanka. We then stopped at Anantara Peace Haven - Tangalle Resort that sits on a rocky outcrop on the southern coast of Sri Lanka near the old fort town of Tangalle. Golden-hued beach fringed by coconut palms overlooks the roaring Indian Ocean with divine rooms especially the ocean suites! We had lunch at one of their restaurants, Il Mare - fine Italian cuisine from native Chef Valentino with a couple of glasses of champagne with breathtaking views. A perfect stop before we made the final leg into Galle before sunset. From the moment I arrived in Galle, I knew this was going to be my favourite place – it has a buzz to it like nowhere else. The Fort Printers was where we stayed. It is an 18th century mansion which has been restored into an elegant small private hotel, originally comprising 5 suites but with the addition of two heritage villas in 2013 has 13 suites, offering understated elegance and personal service in an intimate, friendly atmosphere. The food was excellent both nights and the service was simply superb. If you are used to the Ritz Carlton or similar – this property might not be your cup of tea, but if boutique hotels are your thing, this is perfect. Regardless, the restaurant is renowned and bookings are essential every night. Friends in Texas gave us the recommendation of having High Tea just up the road in the enchanting grounds of Amangalla sitting on their front porch. It was then time to explore the Dutch fort and the sunset that evening was breathtaking! It was then onto Kandy. Our accommodation here was in the Elephant Stables. Service has been impeccable throughout but here with Nihl as the Maître D’, we instantly felt that this was our home for the next two nights. Nothing was too much trouble and we got to know the real Kandy from someone that grew up here – it was very special! The food was lovely and the accommodation very comfortable! We visited a whimsical theme hotel with original Sri-Lankan artwork and murals, Helga's Folly is a dynamic hotel set overlooking Kandy – it was quirky and certainly something you need to see to believe! Kandy itself is a big city with chaotic traffic, and the usual temples and gardens! We decided on our last day to see if we could take the train to Colombo for the final leg of our tour instead of driving. The train takes 3 hours while driving is close to 5. We managed to secure first class seats and we were in Colombo in no time. A tuk tuk took as to The Gallery Café which was simply stunning for an early dinner before our driver picked us up to take us to our hotel in the former Prime Ministers' residence dating from 1930, this lavish boutique hotel is set among gardens – Tintagel was a perfect way to finish this two week cultural explosion! The textiles and food scene in Colombo is wonderful and the markets were colourful and the perfect place to take photos especially at dusk when they are full of locals on their way home from work. If I return, I would do things differently – the train is a wonderful way of getting around, but if you are like me and you travel with probably one piece of luggage too many, a driver is a must. Having Geeth was wonderful as the days we needed a car he was knowledgeable but when the car and traffic was enough, he would meet the train or meet us after we arrived with our luggage!
Sri Lanka is a better alternative to Bali and certainly very different to India. I will return…but within 5 years I fear Colombo will be very commercial and the old history that it is holding onto will start to fade. If it is on your bucket list I would go soon before it gets its first Starbucks and another McDonalds!
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